Volcano Mt. Etna rises beyond the ruins of the third century BCE Greek Theater, one of the most popular tourist destinations in Taormina, Sicily. Photo by K. Roy Zerloch

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The Villa Romana del Casale (Roman Country Villa) in Piazza Armerina, a well-preserved 43-room mansion, dates back to 320 CE. In the 18th century, archeologists uncovered more than 37,000 square feet of mosaic flooring in the villa, now on view to visitors. Photo by Restuccia Giancarlo

“You can steal my money, but not my food.”

“If lunch or dinner doesn’t have at least five courses, it’s just a snack.”

“If you want things to go exactly as planned, don’t come here.”

These words spoken by Alessio, our tour guide in Sicily from Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT), say a lot about the island. Because Alessio dearly loves his homeland, his comments also demonstrate the gently self-deprecating humor that Sicilians often use to describe their foibles.

Yes food is important, plentiful and held in a place of near reverence. Plans don’t always work out as intended, and the locals have learned to go with the flow. And residents of the triangular-shaped island just off the toe of Italy’s boot exhibit a warmth, friendliness and joy of life that provide reason enough to visit there.

Other reasons include a vast collection of archaeological and architectural treasures, intriguing chapters of history that await around every corner, and examples of Mother Nature’s most magnificent handiworks.

One welcome surprise is how much diversity exists in such a small space. Packed into an area about the size of Maryland, Sicily offers enough variety that some visitors liken it to a mini-continent.

Very mini! It takes only about five hours to drive across the entire island. But despite its small size, Sicily’s varied landscapes provide a dramatic backdrop for its other attractions. Deep valleys rise up to rocky mountaintops. Fields and rolling hills are blanketed by the silver-green leaves of olive trees, low-lying grape vines and golden wheat.

Phoenicians, Romans and more

The many peoples who ruled here over the centuries left an assortment of architectural riches behind. By about 750 BCE, the island was home to three Phoenician and a dozen Greek colonies. Later, much of it fell into Roman hands, and it became Rome’s first province outside of the Italian mainland.

Among those who held temporary sway over Sicily after the collapse of the Roman Empire were the Germanic Vandals and Ostrogoths, followed by Berbers and Arabs, Normans and the Byzantine Empire. Each left their mark.

The Valley of the Temples is home to the remains of graceful Greek structures that were built between 510 and 430 BCE above the ruins of a Roman town. Sprawling across more than 3,200 acres, it’s said to be the largest archaeological site in the world.

The Temple of Concordia is one of the best preserved edifices, and is ranked among the most notable remaining examples of Greek civilization. ]

The Temple of Juno was damaged by a fire and restored in Roman times. Also strewn about the site are sections of defensive walls and gates, and portions of vats where grapes were pressed.

The Villa Romana del Casale near the town of Piazza is a near-perfect preservation. Constructed in the 4th century CE for an unknown but obviously well-heeled nobleman, the 43-room mansion-like hunting lodge was lavishly decorated with what today are among the finest remaining examples of Roman mosaics in Europe.

The scenes range from Homeric escapades to depictions of daily life. One large image portrays various areas of the Roman Empire at the time, including a veritable zoo of lions, tigers and other African animals, both real and fanciful.

The most famous attraction in the town of Mazara, among a number of them, is the mysterious Greek bronze statue of the Dancing Satyr. In Greek mythology, satyrs were quasi-human figures who were believed to have been lecherous, and this eight-foot-tall sculpture is leaping with abandon as if in an ecstatic trance.

Uncovering the capital’s gems

Other cities and towns throughout Sicily have their own unique claims to fame. Many people begin their exploration in Palermo, the capital, which is also the largest city and cultural center.

At first glance, they may be disappointed, concluding that it lacks the magnificence and allure of other municipalities around Italy and the world. However, that judgment would be premature.

Beneath its jumble of rather nondescript buildings waits a wealth of architectural gems, inviting and interesting museums, and other attractions. These include traces of Phoenician walls and gates, and magnificent Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque churches, palaces and other buildings.

The Teatro Massimo (Greatest Theatre), which opened in 1897, is a reminder that hundreds of small opera houses were sprinkled throughout the city prior to the start of the 20th century. The ornate building is the third largest opera house in Europe, after those in Paris and Vienna. If it looks familiar to visitors, that’s because of its role in the movie Godfather Part III.

The 10,922 foot peak of massive Mt. Etna, often hidden in clouds, looms over the eastern side of the island. “The Mountain,” as locals refer to it, is the highest active volcano in Europe, although fortunately that usually takes the form of lava flows rather than eruptions.

A gustatory celebration

Drama of another kind plays out in the sprawling outdoor fruit, vegetable and fish markets, which are leftover vestiges of 9th century Arab souks. Crowds of people mill around the stands, as many looking as buying. Vendors alternate entreaties to passers-by to stop and shop with good-natured jibes about their competitors.

Food plays a major role in a visit to Sicily, because it plays a bit part in the lives of Sicilians. Mealtimes are not just for eating, they’re as much about a celebration of food.

A shared goal of restaurant chefs seems to be challenging diners to demonstrate their satisfaction by ingesting quantities of food that would be an adequate intake for days back home (just a slight exaggeration).

Given its agriculturally rich land and sunny climate, Sicily served as the granary for the Roman Empire. Its long history of producing a variety of noted cuisines, influenced by those of Greece, Africa and the Arab world among others, earned it the nickname “God’s kitchen.”

In this gastronomically rich and diverse setting, every region has its own specialties, which are vociferously touted by those who cook and consume them as il migliore (“the best”).

That sense of pride also extends to wine, not surprising given Sicily’s 2500-year past as a center of viniculture. Italy ranks first in the world in the volume of wine produced, and Sicily does its part to contribute to that standing.

Occasionally, our guide took us off the formal itinerary for a unique treat. Once, he led us into a convent that houses cloistered nuns who are famous for making delicious cookies. Alessio passed some coins through a small barred window and several minutes later a plate of mouth-watering sweets emerged. He even managed to gain us entry to an adjoining room whose ceiling is covered by a magnificent fresco, and which usually is closed to the public.

Against the background of Sicily’s treasure-trove of architectural gems and archaeological riches, it’s the joy of life, pride for their compact homeland, and intriguing multi-cultural mixture of the people that provide the most lasting memories for visitors.

If you go

Accommodations on OAT’s Sicily trips range from city center four-star hotels to a stately stone farmhouse complex perched inside an archaeological nature preserve.

Itineraries often include both hosted meals and dine-on-your-own opportunities to sample restaurant fare. Our overnight stay at the Vecchia Masseria, a traditional farm and lodging, included a gourmet dinner featuring a lavish spread of locally grown ingredients. They ranged from pasta with pumpkin cream sauce, and mushrooms stuffed with meat and cheese, to pork with Marsala wine sauce, all accompanied by liqueurs produced at the farm.

Typical of dinners on our own was an excellent meal at La Tavernetta de Pier (59 via Cavour) in Syracuse (Syra-koosa], a 2,700-year-old city that is rich in ancient Greek history, culture and architecture. Its wide-ranging menu features more than a dozen pasta dishes ($10-$12) and, given the location on Sicily’s eastern coastline, a variety of fresh-from-the-sea entrees like simply grilled fish ($12). For more information, visit latavernettadapiero.com or call 39-0931-185-5291.

Overseas Adventure Travel offers a choice of more than 60 itineraries in over 65 countries around the world, along with river cruises. Its 10-day trip to Sicily starts at $3,750, with no extra charge for singles.

For information about OAT tours to Sicily and elsewhere, call (800) 955-1925 or visit http://www.oattravel.com. For information about Sicily and all of Italy, go to http://www.italiantourism.com.

Flights to Palermo in early June can be pricey. The lowest roundtrip price from Washington on a full-service carrier, Lufthansa, is $2,233. You can cut this in half by going to Milan on Wow, a no-frills airline that will add fees for luggage and other items, and then take low-cost Ryanair to Palermo.