Cozumel — part Mexico, part Caribbean
Much about the island of Cozumel says Mexico.
Scattered archeological sites hint of the rich Mayan civilization that once flourished there. Parts of San Miguel, the only town, retain the charms of typical villages that are common throughout the rest of the country on the nearby mainland. One of those is the Sunday evening gathering of people along the malecon (esplanade), where parents show off their spiffily dressed children.
At the same time, Cozumel also proudly proclaims “Caribbean.”
White sand beaches are fringed by stately palm trees. The center of the island is covered by dense jungle and swampy lagoons. Activities common to Caribbean islands greet visitors, from sunbathing to sightseeing to snorkeling.
Lying 12 miles off the east coast of Mexico, Cozumel is known for offering deep sea diving that’s among the best in the world. It’s ringed by an underwater wonderland of Technicolor coral heads and submarine gardens that are home to an almost unimaginable variety of sea life.
Non-swimmers may enjoy close-up introductions to creatures large and small in a glass bottom boat or mini-submarine, during a dolphin show, by checking out resident crocodiles in their lair, and by observing endangered sea turtle hatchlings making their way to the Caribbean waters where they will spend their lives.
Venture beyond tourist zone
A more participatory experience awaits those who take part in atemazcal — a Mayan sweat lodge session that also is available elsewhere on the island. Warning: you will sweat more than you ever thought possible.
One of the most pleasant surprises during my visit to Cozumel with my wife Fyllis was how much I enjoyed the kind of attraction that I typically avoid. Why, I wondered, should we spend time visiting a Mexican cultural theme park when the real Mexico is just outside? As it turned out, I was happy that Fyllis insisted we check out aptly named Discover Mexico.
We began by watching a multi-screen presentation that traces the country’s history and describes its cultures. Then we admired a collection of native art and crafts created by artisans from around the nation.
This was followed by the main attraction. Our stroll through a setting of coconut palms, banana trees and other tropical vegetation, along pathways shared with turtles and iguanas, would have been reason enough for me to be glad we dropped by. But that was just the beginning.
The trail led to more than three dozen meticulously detailed scale models of Mexico’s most famous archeological sites and buildings. Replicas of structures from the Mayan, Aztec and Colonial periods stand near models of contemporary architectural treasures like the magnificent Palace of Fine Arts in Mexico City.
Alternating with signs that offer information about the undersized edifices are others that provide interesting, if to me somewhat bizarre, tidbits. For example, I learned that Mexico has the highest consumption of Coca-Cola in the world, and that the Caesar Salad was invented in Tijuana. (Note to readers who may be skeptical of these claims: I verified them through an Internet search.)
Speaking of food, a variety of regional items is on the menu at the Visit Mexico snack bar, and where there’s food, there’s drink. In Mexico, that usually means tequila, which locals light-heartedly refer to as “Mexican water.” Visitors to the theme park have an opportunity to discover how tequila is made, then sample several different brands.
Sipping tequila is about as Mexican as it gets. So, too, is much about the island of Cozumel — which, at the same time, offers attractions usually associated with other Caribbean islands. That combination presents visitors with the best of both worlds.
If you go
Few resorts immerse their guests more in the culture of the destination than the Presidente Intercontinental Cozumel Resort & Spa. The temazcal sweat lodge experience is just the beginning. Many signs throughout the hotel recall the Mayan language, like those for the adult swimming pool (sayab, ocean of tranquility) and lobby bar (Bin K’iin, sunset).
Some traditional Mayan dishes are served in the main restaurant, and the spa incorporates ancient Mayan traditions into treatments.
Mayan art decorates guest rooms, and instead of a chocolate left on pillows, a pamphlet recounts a different Mayan legend each night. My favorite relates how Zamina, creator of the universe, fell in love with the Goddess Ixchel.
Rates at the Presidente Cozumel begin at $282, in keeping with its upscale ambience and attractions. For information or reservations, call 1-800-344-0548 or log onto presidentecozumel.com.
Among cuisines served at the hotel’s four restaurants are northern Italian, international fare and, of course, Mexican dishes. A more local dining experience awaits a short walk away at the casual Money Bar. Given its oceanside setting, the focus there is on dishes like seafood soup ($8) and fish filet with three side dishes ($12). More information is available by calling (987) 869-5141, or visit moneybarbeachclub.com.
In San Muguel, the Casa Denis has been serving meals out of the family home at Calle 1 #132 Centro since 1945. The extensive menu includes snapper filet ($13), beefsteak with onions ($10) and chicken “10 ways” ($10). For more information, visit casadenis.com or call (987) 872-0067.
Information about Cozumel is available at www.cozumel.travel.
