Greenwich Mean Time is measured at the Royal Observatory, which overlooks the Thames River and the London skyline. Far from the madding crowd, Greenwich Hill is a peaceful place to relax. Photo by Don Mankin

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Colorful houseboats line Regent’s Canal in London’s Little Venice. The canal’s nine-mile towpath connects Little Venice to the Thames. Photo © Iolya | Dreamstime.com

I lie on my back on the cool grass, the sound of quacking ducks and raucous frisbee players wafting my way on the soft breeze drifting across the meadow.

Sheer bliss! A welcome respite from the crowds cramming Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey and St. Paul’s Cathedral.

Worn out from several days of tourist attractions and museums, I was taking advantage of the unseasonably warm weather in London one fall to do what I do best — explore interesting, unfamiliar places on foot, quaff the occasional ale and recline at every opportunity.

My wife, Katherine, and I had already visited London’s most popular tourist destinations and were looking for something different, something calming to refresh my lagging spirits.

Exploring Hampstead Heath

Hampstead Heath fit the bill, with 790 acres of grassy meadows, shaded woodlands, gentle hills, duck ponds, walking paths and even a bona fide but uncrowded tourist attraction, Kenwood House, a 17^th-century mansion.

Katherine and I wandered through the heath, veering off into the woods, gazing at a heron in a pond, or scanning the distant London skyline from one of the highest points in the city.

It was one of those days intrepid travelers cherish, free of agendas, schedules and places to be.

Hampstead is one of London’s most beautiful residential districts. Cafes, pubs, boutique shops and colorful houses, gardens and hedges line its cobblestone streets. It feels more like a village than a neighborhood in a dense, urban environment.

After several hours of exploring in the heath, we headed to one of the many chic gastropubs close by and indulged in a late lunch on a sunny patio on the street.

On my first visit to London in 1968, I mostly ate bangers and mash, steak and kidney pies, fish and chips, and tikka masala. London’s cuisine has come a long way since then.

Katherine had a salad with enough greens, fruits, nuts and grains to satisfy the pickiest vegan, gluten-free Californian, and I had a robust burger with enough toppings to satisfy an overweight carnivore like me.

Regent’s Canal stroll

The next day, craving additional agenda-free strolling, we embarked on a walk along Regent’s Canal from the Little Venice basin in West London to the hip, buzzy, bohemian enclave of Camden Town.

Little Venice, an affluent neighborhood in West London, sits at the conjunction of three waterways: Regent’s Canal, Paddington Basin and the Grand Union Canal.

What’s notable about the basin and especially Regent’s Canal are the colorful houseboat barges, each different than the next, docked along the canal.

As we strolled, we admired them and the 19^th-century townhomes along both sides of the canal, where a bevy of swans glided single-file down the middle of the narrow waterway.

We took our time as we sauntered down the towpath, stopping for lunch at a charming Italian café on a short bridge straddling the canal.

From our outdoor table in the middle of the bridge, we gazed at the barges lining both sides of the canal and the autumn leaves clinging to the overarching trees on the banks. It was hard to imagine that we were in the middle of bustling, crowded London in the middle of the day.

The towpath runs for about two-and-a-half miles from Little Venice to Camden Town. Along the way were gleaming mansions perched on lush green lawns.

The route also passes through a more urban, industrial area. But for someone interested in both the picturesque and the gritty dimensions of the urban environment, the walk was fascinating.

Camden Town is sprawling and crowded with teenagers, tourists and punks. Decidedly bohemian and counterculture, the district is filled with street markets, food carts, trendy stores and music venues.

Depending on your point of view, it is either tacky or vibrant. Since I was thoroughly chilled out by the time we reached the end of our walk, I came down on the side of vibrant and was ready to soak up the “groovy” vibe.

We checked out the tchotchkes for sale at the many stalls sprinkled throughout the market, and I even sampled a cheesesteak at the “Philly Boys” food cart.

How was it? Well, let’s just say that, in this Philly boy’s opinion, world-famous Pat’s Steaks in South Philadelphia has nothing to worry about.

Cruising on the River Thames

The high point of our chillin’ out tour of London was a boat ride on the River Thames to Greenwich. At Westminster Pier, we boarded the boat for a one-hour sightseeing cruise to the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site and the Royal Observatory.

For techies and others fascinated by 19^th-century science, the Royal Observatory is literally ground zero for the Prime Meridian of the world: the reference point for mapping, navigation and timekeeping throughout the world.

Greenwich is also home to the Cutty Sark (the historic sailing ship, not the whisky), the National Maritime Museum, the Old Royal Naval College and many other shops, restaurants and pubs.

The cruise was the primary draw for me — a great way to sightsee without breaking a sweat. My only exercise was sprinting from one side of the boat to the other for photos and unobstructed views of Westminster Abbey, the London Eye, the Tower of London, Tower Bridge, the Globe Theater and such modern architectural wonders as the skyscrapers affectionately known as the Shard and the Gherkin.

I also spotted the Prospect of Whitby and The Mayflower, the oldest riverside pubs in London, which date back to the 16^th century.

The Royal Observatory, situated on a hill overlooking the river, played a major role in the history of astronomy and navigation. The observatory is now maintained almost exclusively as a museum for historic astronomical and navigational tools.

We spent several hours touring the observatory and the broad expanse of lawn leading down to the Thames, the Cutty Sark and the town of Greenwich, stopping in a particularly picturesque pub for lunch.

On the return cruise, I sat back on a bench on the upper deck and just watched the scenery flow by. I had enough photos to bore even my best friends.

Although I like museums, castles, cathedrals and other tourist attractions as much as the next guy, I would rather relax outdoors, experiencing unfamiliar places and locations at my own pace and letting serendipity be my guide.

If you go

Nonstop round-trip airfare from Washington-area airports is usually less than $800.

London hotels can be very expensive. We stayed in a home exchange, so that wasn’t an issue for us. For accommodations, I recommend checking on any of the online travel sites (e.g., TripAdvisor, Kayak, Bookings.com, etc.) or Airbnb for the best choice for your price range and desired location.

Where to eat: Near Hampstead Heath, try Wells Tavern (thewellshampstead.co.uk). On the Regent’s Canal, pause at Café Laville (cafelaville.co.uk), and in Greenwich eat at Gipsy Moth (thegipsymothgreenwich.co.uk).

For more information about the Thames Canal tour, visit thamesriversightseeing.com.

There is no admission fee at Kenwood House, which is known for its world-class art collection, which includes paintings by Rembrandt and Vermeer.