The Herodeon amphitheatre on Athens’ Acropolis, also called the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, is a UNESCO World Heritage site originally built in the year 161. It was restored in the 1950s, and today is a main venue of the Athens Festival. Photo by Anton Ivanov

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As a seaside metropolis with a lively outdoor vibe and dozens of picturesque islands beckoning nearby, Athens is more often considered a summer tourist destination than a winter escape.

An early morning visit will put the sun behind you as you gaze across the city toward the Acropolis, with the shores of the Aegean Sea lapping in the distance. Part of the fun is getting there via a stroll from the center of town through the upscale Kolonaki neighborhood, with its bustling cafes and designer merchandise.

Syntagma Square

This is the heart of the city, and site of mass protests in recent years over the Greek economic crisis. The square is right in front of parliament and the tomb of the unknown soldier, where soldiers in kilt-like garments and red leather clogs with black pompoms perform elaborate changing-of-the-guard ceremonies several times a day.

To the west, busy Ermou street offers the city’s primary shopping district. It leads toward the neighborhoods of Monastiraki, which has a large, busy Sunday morning flea market, and Psyrri, with a wide selection of bars and live music tavernas.  

Recommended eateries include O Kostas (5 Pentelis St.), a hole in the wall known for excellent souvlaki. At Lukumades (Eolou Street and Agias Irinis Square), try the deep-fried doughnut ball doused in honey.

Plaka

Just south of Syntagma is Plaka, a historical neighborhood built upon the ancient town of Athens. Known as the “Neighborhood of the Gods’’ because of its proximity to the Acropolis, its maze-like narrow streets are a joy to explore.

Amid remnants of archaeological sites, there’s street art, small shops and restaurants. A real gem is Psaras, an old-style taverna off the main drag, popular with locals and tourists. The baked feta pastry appetizer dipped in honey and sprinkled with sesame seeds is a treat to warm up a winter day.

Besides the Acropolis Museum, the neighborhood is also home to the Jewish Museum of Greece (6 euros) and the Museum of Greek Folk Art (2 euros).

Sounion

A same-day excursion to one of the three nearby islands of Aegina, Poros or Hydra is possible. But with a limited winter ferry schedule the journey will likely take longer than the actual stay.

A more rewarding outing is the 90-minute bus ride along the “Greek Riviera” down to the southern peninsula of Sounion, where the Temple of Poseidon reveals a breathtaking view of the sea.

The deep blue waters ripple around the ancient hilltop structure dedicated to the god of the sea. The salty breeze offers an escape from the bustle of Athens, as mountains jut out of the sea and the rocky ancient landscape provides a tranquil parting from Greece.

The lowest round-trip fare to Athens from the Washington area in late February is $580 on Turkish Airlines from Dulles. Swiss and Lufthansa have a fare for $680 from Dulles and Reagan National.

— AP